Period Patterns number 21, Cotehardies and Sideless
Surcoats, c. 14th and 15th centuries, has 3 cotehardies and
4 sideless surcoats (sizes 6-20).
These go great with Period Patterns
26, 90 and
92.
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Women's Cotehardies,c. 1340-1420,
Originally a version of the tunic (Period Patterns
#16), cotehardies differed in sleeve cut, variations, and
tailor fit. Woman's cotehardies were fitted or even tight to
the hips, then flared to the hem. They most often had long
tight sleeves. They would be worn over a chemise (Period
Patterns no. 90). Men's cotehardies, worn long or short,
were initially tight to the hips, with long tight sleeves.
They were worn over a shirt (Period Pattern no. 43) and hose
(Period Pattern no. 101), often with hoods. Inthe first half
of the 14th century a major style change occurred. With the
invention of curved sleeve caps, gussets under the arm
became unnecessary. Puffed chests and full sleeves became
fashionable on men's cotehardies by 1350.
Women's sizing
chart
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Period Patterns number 23, Men's Cotehardies,c.
1340-1420, contains patterns for 5 cotehardiesand three
hoods (sizes 36-48).
Cotehardies are complemented by Period Patterns
26, 92, and
101.
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Men's Cotehardies,c.
1340-1420
Sleeveless tunics or surcoats (from the French "sur le
cote", i.e. over the cotehardie) were worn by both sexes as
early as the 12th century, but with the return of crusaders
from the Holy Land the style became wildly popular. The
armholes deepened to the waist, then (particularly on
woman's surcoats) to the hip, earning the name "sideless
surcoats". These worn by women over very tight cotehardies,
roused the ire of the church because their revealing cut was
considered too seductive -the clergy dubbed these "the Gates
of Hell". Surcoats and cotehardies for both sexes could be
plain and somber, or wildly colorful. Heraldic motifs were
common on these garments. Both sexes began wearing
houpelandes (Period Patterns no. 26) over a cotehardie after
1380.
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