Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for coifs, forehead cloths, two versions of the Dutch cap, Hollar cap and Diadem cap.   One size fits all.   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics:   31Ž2 oz - 5 oz linen

Yardage Requirements:

• Coif and Forehead Cloth &emdash; 1Ž2 yard
• Dutch Cap &emdash; 1Ž2 yard
• Hollar Cap &emdash; 3Ž4 yard
• Diadem Cap &emdash; 1Ž4 yard

Notions:

• all:   40/2 linen sewing thread or equivalent
• diadem cap:   heavy-weight buckram
• optional for all:   bobbin lace trim
• optional for coif and Dutch cap:   millinery wire
• optional for Dutch cap:   two oblong glass beads

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for man's breeches circa 1630.   Included are instructions for optional paning.   Upper class and lower class instructions included.   Fits waists 28"-50".   All sizes included in one envelope.   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics:   wool, heavyweight silk, lightweight silk or linen for lining

Yardage Requirements: 3 yds at least 36" wide

Notions:

• thread
• 10-5/8" buttons for fly closure
• 8-12 1" coat hooks
• buttonhole floss
• hooks and eyes, no. 1 or 2 (optional)
• 10-5/8" buttons for leg closure (optional)
• silk ribbon (optional)

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for man's cassock (casaque) or mandillion.   Can be worn as a sleeved overcoat or a cape.   Multisized to fit chests 32"-60".   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics:   coat weight wool or heavyweight silk, lightweight silk lining (optional)

Yardage Requirements: 5 yds

Notions:

•     thread
•     up to 154 - 5/8" metal buttons
•     buttonhole floss
•     trim as desired (optional)
•     1Ž4 yd buckram (optional)

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for men's falling band, men's and women's gollila, women's collar extensions, kerchief and whisk and matching cuffs.   We've taken the math out of clocked collars!   All pattern pieces are complete and so easy, even a beginner can make beautiful collars and cuffs the first time.   Fits necks 12" - 171Ž2" with adjustment directions for smaller and larger necks.   All neck sizes available in one envelope.   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics: 31Ž2 oz - 5 oz linen, cambric, lawn, voile, silk organza, organdy

Yardage Requirements:

•     falling band &emdash; 1 yd
•     cuffs &emdash; 1Ž2 yd
•     golilla &emdash; 1Ž2 yd
•     whisk or kerchief &emdash; 1 yd
•     collar extension &emdash; 1 yd

Notions:

• all: 40/2 linen thread or equivalent
• optional for all: bobbin lace, reticello, cutwork or needlelace trim

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for man's doublet circa 1630.   Included are instructions for optional paning.   Upper class and lower class instructions included.   Specify Medium (includes all sizes for chests 34"-44") or Large (includes all sizes for chests 46"-54").   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics:   wool, heavyweight silk, lightweight silk or linen for lining, heavy linen or canvas for interlining

Yardage Requirements: 3 yds at least 45" wide

Notions:

• thread
• buckram
• wool felt or padding for shoulders
• up to 30-5/8" buttons for front closure
• buttonhole floss
• thin cardboard (optional)
• corset boning or reeds (optional)
• 7-5/8" buttons for arm closure (optional)
• silk ribbon (optional)

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for English-, French- and Dutchwomen's bodices and petticotes (jackets and skirts) with optional stomacher appropriate for the 1630s; and Women's Common or Middle Class bodice and petticote appropriate for the 1630s through 1660s.   Included are low, open front bodice to be worn with stomacher or closed, high front, boned or stiffened lining, wide or narrow sleeves with optional paning, continguous gored or attached tabbed skirting. Petticote options include hooked or tied waistband with slits for pocket access.   Upper class and lower class instructions included.

All Sizes in one envelope.   Fits bust 301Ž2"-48" and waist 23"-41".   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics: wool, silk, linen for lining

Yardage Requirements:

•     Bodice 21Ž4 yards at least 45" wide
•     lining 21Ž4 yards at least 45" wide
•     Petticote 3 yards at least 45" wide
•     lining (optional) 3 yards at least 45" wide

Notions:

•     thread
•     buckram or stiff linen
•     (boned bodice) corset boning
•       or 7mm half-oval reeds
•     (stomacher) wooden busk
•     hooks and eyes for front closure
•     silk ribbon (optional)

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for 14th through 17th century cloth hose, boot hose, and netherstocks (fabric, not knitted).   All Sizes in one envelope.   Fits calves up to 17" with instructions on how to adjust for larger calves.   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics: wool flannel (twill), wool tabby (plain weave), 31Ž2 oz - 5 oz linen

Yardage Requirements: 11Ž2 yds 45" wide

Notions:

•  all:   linen or silk sewing thread, or equivalent
• optional for boothose:  bobbin lace, reticello, cutwork or needlelace, silk embroidery floss, wool embroidery floss

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for Elizabethan Loose Gown and Kirtle with matching Sleeves based on extant examples in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nürnberg, Germany.  Kirtle features interlining for shape, applied decoration, eyeleted back closure, and tie-on sleeves. Gown can be mid-calf or floor length and features a straight or cut-away front, applied decoration, relaxed puff or padded sleeves, and a stand collar.  All Sizes in one envelope.   Fits bust 301Ž2"-48".   Embellishment suggestions and historical notes included.

Suggested Fabrics:

• Kirtle & Sleeves:  medium weight silk or linen
• Gown: silk velvet, plush, or brocade

Yardage Requirements:

• Kirtle
  • outer material & lining &emdash; 4 yds (each) at least 45" wide
  • hem linings & facings 11Ž2 yds (each) at least 45" wide
  • center panel 2 yds at least 45" wide
•     Gown
  • outer material (with nap) 8 yds at least 45" wide
  • outer material (without nap) 4 yds at least 45" wide
  • lining 4 yds at least 45" wide
•     Sleeves
  • outer material 2 yds at least 45" wide
  • lining 2 yds at least 45" wide
  • brocade decoration 2 yd at least 45" wide

The finished back length of the Kirtle and Loose Gown is 58". For every inch longer in finished length required, you will need an additional 1/8-yard of fabric.

Notions (optional):

• Bias Tape: 3 yds at least 2" wide
• Hem Binding: 4 yds (each) at least 2" wide
• Sleeve Foundation: 1Ž2 yard buckram
• Sleeve Ribbon: 11Ž2 yds 1" wide ribbon
• 24 to 30 frogs or other closures
•  Cording and appliqué to taste

Full size paper patterns and detailed instructions for Women's Upper Class English Jacket and Petticote (jacket and skirt) with high or low neck, narrow sleeves, and continguous gored skirting appropriate for the late 16th and early 17th century. Petticote options include hooked or tied waistband with slits for pocket access.   Historical notes.   Upper class and lower class instructions included.   All Sizes in one envelope.   Fits bust 301Ž2"-48" and waist 23"-41".   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics: linen; silk or linen for lining

Yardage Requirements:

• Jacket &emdash; 21Ž4 yards at least 45" wide
• Petticote &emdash; 3 yards at least 45" wide

Notions:

• thread
• hooks and eyes or silk ribbons for front closure

Full size paper patterns for late Elizabethan corsets based on two extant English examples.   View A, based on the pair of bodys belonging the Pfalzgräfin Dorothea Sabina von Neuberg in 1598 are front-boned, five piece bodys featuring a static front busk, integral shoulder straps, back laced closure, and separate tabs at the waist.   View B, based on the corset worn by the effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Cathedral, features a front opening and integral waist tabs.   Historical notes.   All Sizes in one envelope.   Fits bust 301Ž2"-48" and waist 23"-41".   Embellishment suggestions included

Suggested Fabrics:

•     plain or twill weave linen or silk
•     silk or fine linen for lining
•     stiff linen or buckram for yoke interlining

Yardage Requirements:

• outer material &emdash; 1 yd at least 45" wide
• lining &emdash; 1 yd at least 45" wide
• interlining (optional) &emdash; 2 yds at least 45" wide

Notions:

•     40/2 linen thread or equivalent  
• 7mm or 1Ž4" half oval or round reeds or 1Ž4" corset boning    
•  silk ribbon or leather for binding  
• 44 metal rings (View A, optional)
• wood or horn busk (View A)     
• 2 - 1Ž2" corset bones (View B)   
• corset lacing

Full size paper patterns for Elizabethan and Jacobean Loose Gowns based on extant examples in the Isham Collection. Gowns feature an open front, epaulettes and a stiff inner yoke to which the gown is pleated for support. Choose from two different styles of hanging sleeves or a sleeveless version.   Historical notes.   All Sizes in one envelope.   Fits bust 301Ž2"-48".   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics:   silk velvet, plush, or taffeta; stiff linen or buckram for yoke interlining

Yardage Requirements:

• outer material &emdash; 5 yds at least 45" wide
• interlining &emdash; 1 yd at least 24" wide

Notions:   metallic braid, metallic bobbin lace, spangles

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for man's doublet circa 1640 or English Civil War Soldier's Coat.   Variations for ECW Buff Coat also given.   Included are instructions for optional paning.   Upper class and lower class instructions included.   Fits chests 34"-54".   All sizes included in one envelope.   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics:   wool, heavyweight silk

lightweight silk or linen for lining

heavy linen or canvas for interlining

    (buff coat) buff leather (sleeves optional)

Yardage Requirements: 3 yds at least 45" wide or 12 sq. ft. 1/8" buff leather

Notions:

• thread
• buckram
• (doublet)wool felt or padding for shoulders
• (doublet)7 - 5/8" buttons for front closure
• (doublet)buttonhole floss
• (soldier's coat or buff coat) leather thong for front closure
• thin cardboard for collar stiffening (optional)
• corset boning or reeds (optional)
• 3 - 5/8" buttons for arm closure (optional)
• silk ribbon (optional)

Full-size paper patterns with complete instructions and historical notes for men's and women's shirts.   Variations include three different sleeves and two collar options.   Wider, noble shirt options also included.   Multisized to fit chests 32"-60".   Embellishment suggestions included.

Suggested Fabrics: 3 oz - 5 oz linen, white, natural or half-bleached

Yardage Requirements:

•     Medium shirt &emdash; 21Ž4 yards ~57" wide
•     Large shirt &emdash; 21Ž4 yards ~57" wide
•     Small shift &emdash; 31Ž4 yards ~57" wide
•     Large shift &emdash; 31Ž2 yards ~57" wide

Notions:

• all:   linen or silk sewing thread, or equivalent
• optional for all: bobbin lace, needlelace, or cutwork trim, silk embroidery floss